Bluestone River, West Virginia
On The Fly Freshwater
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May 2024
Article and photos by Jimmy Jacobs
The Bluestone River flowing through its namesake gorge in Pipestem Resort State Park in southern West Virginia is presently offering anglers a rather unique fishing experience. Although temporary, it just might be the most civilized wilderness fishing destination in the eastern United States.
To begin with one must understand the terrain involved. The state park sits on the rim of a gorge that drops down 1000 feet. At the bottom the Bluestone River courses through the park for 1.27 miles. Among the park’s regular amenities are the Mountain Creek Lodge at the river’s edge and an aerial tram that transports visitors down into the gorge. Unfortunately, the lodge, which is ordinarily open seasonally, and the tramway are both closed. The tram is being replaced, with an expected reopening this fall. In the meantime, the only way to get down to the bottom is by walking the park’s trail system. Those treks are not too difficult going in, but after a day of fishing the climb out can be daunting!
So why is this a civilized wilderness destination? The McKeever Lodge at the top of the gorge is first class. The park also offers dining and a wide array of resort amenities. But once you descend into the gorge to fish, you leave civilization behind. Still, with this situation, why would a fly caster go to the trouble to head down the path to the river?
For an answer, let’s take a look at the history of this fishery. A decade and a half ago the Bluestone Gorge first appeared on the radar of a lot of fly fishers. That was when the park instituted a Trout Wrangler Program. At the time the river in the gorge was managed as a delayed-harvest fishery, and well stocked, including some very large trout.
The wrangler program was a fall and winter affair with the anglers riding horseback into the gorge and staying at the Mountain Creek Lodge that was open only for the fishermen. Dinners of steaks were prepared on an outdoor grill, along with fresh sides. Then it was time for a day and half of targeting the rainbow and brown trout in the river.
The Trout Wrangler Program has since been discontinued and today the river is managed year-round under catch-and-release rules. Rainbows and browns still are stocked by the park, including some 1- to 5-pounders. Another bonus is the presence of smallmouth bass in the river as well.
At the bottom of the gorge the Bluestone usually flows gin clear as it stretches to 100 feet or more in width. The rocky course is mostly wadable, though there are some deeper holes. In the calmer stretches you need to move stealthily to keep from spooking the fish.
Many of the rainbow trout encountered will be in the 12- to 15-inch size range, but some are also present that can be measured in pounds.
When it comes to picking your flies, starting in May through June the Bluestone is noted for afternoon hatches of Sulphurs. Tossing No.14 to 18 size Light Cahills or Sulphur Duns is a good tactic during these periods.
From July to September, the fish often key on terrestrials. The go-to flies then are ant and hopper patterns, but Elk-Hair Caddis also will attract some rises. That angling is followed by Blue-Winged Olive hatches on October afternoons. Finally, from November to February it is time to start casting midges to the fish. The Zebra Midge is a good choice in sizes 20 to 28.
At any time, stripping Wooly Buggers through the deeper pools can be the ticket for hooking some of the bigger trout.
Presently there are a couple of ways into the gorge for some fishing. The River Trail begins at the McKeever Lodge, first dropping steeply for a quarter mile before leveling out to a gentle incline for 5 more miles to the river. You can start fishing at that point, or ford the river for another 3/4-mile walk to the Mountain Creek Lodge.
To shorten the walk, you can take the Canyon Rim Trail that drops steeply down from the employe parking lot at the Canyon Rim Center to intersect the River Trail. This will cut about a mile off your trek into the gorge.
Your final option is to postpone your fishing trip until the fall when the new six-person gondolas will be running on the aerial tram. You can board them for a fee at the Canyon Rim Center, enjoy the view as you descend to the Mountain Creek Lodge, then start fishing.
Regardless of how you reach the river, you are guaranteed some good angling possibilities and at the end of the day a first-class resort experience awaits you!
